|
Dog School - Week 6
General Information
Body Language- Dogs have a fairly sophisticated system of nonverbal communication, a "Body-Language". In general dogs will display "big-body" silhouettes in an effort to bluff, intimidate or dominate. The dog may have its ears up or forward, its tail up (or tightly curled in a curly tailed breed), its hackles (the hair on its back) up. It may stand tall, and try to loom over or make direct eye contact with the individual it's threatening. Dogs will also display this body language to the human members of their social group, and may misread human body language. For example, the dog may interpret a person bending over and staring into its eyes while patting the top of its head as a looming, threatening approach.
"Small body" silhouettes-ears back, tail lowered, avoiding eye contact, pawing, rolling over- generally indicate submission, or if the posture is accompanied by tension and withdrawal, may indicate fear.
Make your practice with the dog fun for both of you. Practice
Loose Leash Walking (LLW) in a new and pretty place, and then take a break to enjoy it. Take your dog to breakfast at a sidewalk cafe, and practice
down-stays. Practice your "comes" during a hike in the open space.
Review previous rules re: Exercise, company, consistency, use of lures & rewards, and practicing with realistic distraction.
Obedience Commands
Practice "hands-off"
Loose Leash Walking, with your long-line trailing. Remember
that as you raise the standard in one way as you teach a behavior, you will
temporarily relax the standard in other ways. So, for example, as you
work in increasingly distracting areas, you may temporarily return to using a
food lure. Don't get sloppy - keep your dog in position, and enjoying
it. Consider using the " distractions" as rewards--That is, if your dog
can focus and LLW for 10 steps, for example, then he gets to play with the
other dogs, or chase a seagull off the beach...Gradually increase the number
of steps it takes to earn the reward.
Practice distance, time and distraction on
stays.
Examples:
Rollover
Have the dog down. Hold
a food lure against his nose, then bring it round to his shoulder so that he tucks his head to his shoulder and
lies rolled to one hip. Then, move the food lure around the dog's collar; as he moves his head, he will roll his body too.
Once the behavior is smooth, precede the behavior with the verbal cue (" Rollover", or any other cue of your choice.) Remove the food lure from your hand, and prompt the behavior with a motion of your empty hand. Gradually reduce the amount of motion it takes to prompt the behavior, until the dog can do it on a verbal cue alone. Shake Hands Have your dog sit, then hold a food treat
concealed in your fist at the level of his collar. Wait 'til he
paws at your hand, click immediately, then treat. (This
is a behavior in which it is very helpful to use a clicker to mark and capture
the (brief) moment of behavior you want.) Once your dog is reliably pawing
the treat, try this with your fist empty, click, then treat from the other
hand. Once the behavior is fairly reliable, you can give the cue “Shake” just
before you elicit the behavior.
Practice "Come". Owner stands still, no attention-getter, and, as always, only one cue. Use long-line to prevent errors, if necessary. You must practice with distraction, in multiple locations if you want your dog to be reliable. If your dog is responding well, drop the end of the long line, while working on "come". Use caution and common sense.
Make the Come worth your dog's while. When he reaches you, give him a Jackpot reward. Feed him multiple small bits of treats, gush and exclaim, play a game of tug, Don't just murmur "good dog"! Owner Notes/Questions (If you print this homework, you can use this section to make notes about your
dog's progress, and/or to record questions to ask your instructor.)
|
||